Method of making a slip-lasted shoe



July 26, 1955 J. MELTZER METHOD OF MAKING A SLIP LASTED SHOE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 11, 1953 J4c/ MEUZE' ATTO/QIZEY July 26, 1955 J. MELTZER METHOD OF MAKING A SLIP-LASTED SHOE 2 Sheets-Sheet Filed March 11, 1953 IN VEN TOR. TACK MELTZE/Q METHDD OF MAKING A SLiP-LASTED SHOE Jack Meltzer, Los Angeles, Calif.

Application March 11, 1953, Serial No. 341,713

9 Claims. (Cl. 12--142) My present invention relates generally to footwear, and has particular reference to slip-lasted shoes and to the procedural steps involved in making them.

It is the general object of the invention to provide a shoe in which the benefits of a full-length stitched-in sock lining, and of a reinforced upper, are simultaneously achieved, with special provision for the employment of reinforcements of asymmetrical sizes and shapes. For example, I aim by my invention to make it possible, in a fully slip-lasted shoe, to use a counter which is longer on one side than on the other, usually on the inner face of the shoe, thereby imparting additional stiffness and strength in those regions.

Inasmuch as the invention is of particular utility in the rear region of the shoe, the reinforcing element will hereinafter be referred to as a counter, and the part which covers it as a counter-covering element; but since the advantages of the invention are not necessarily limited to the rear part of the shoe, it is intended and desired that these terms be construed in a broader sense, to signify any reinforcement or stiffening element of comparable kind, in whatever region of the upper the desired reinforcement or stiffening is to be achieved. a

One of the circumstances hindering the employment of asymmetrical counters in shoes of this kind is the irregularity of appearance which an asymmetrical countercovering element produces. By means of my present invention a counter may be employed which is not necessarily smaller in area than that of the counter-covering element employed with it. Accordingly, the advantages of the invention can be attained without material sacrifice in style or appearance.

I achieve the foregoing general objects and advantages, and such other benefits as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, in the manner illustratively examplified in the accompanying drawings in which Figure l is a perspective view of an illustrative article of footwear embodying the features of the present invention, and constructed in accordance with the new procedural steps involved;

Figure 2 is a plan view of the blank of sheet material of which each of the side sections of the upper may be formed;

Figure 3 is a perspective view of the rear section of the upper employed in making the shoe of Figure 1;

Figure 4 is a perspective view of the initial step of forming the upper of two side sections and one rear section;

Figure 5 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view substantially along the line 5--5 of Figure 4;

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 4 showing a further stage of the manufacturing process;

Figure 7 is a view similar to the right hand part of Figure 6, illustrating a possible modification in the procedure;

Figure 8 is a perspective view of the reinforcing unit which may be employed;

' be, if desired, of unequal lengths.

2,713,691 Patented July 26, 1955 Figure 9 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view substantially along the line 9--9 of Figure 8;

Figure 10 is a view similar to Figure 6, after the partial assembly of that figure has been combined with the assembly of Figure 8;

Figure 11 is a fragmentary cross section taken substantially on the line 1111 of Figure 10;

Figure 12 is a view similar to Figure 10 showing a further stage in the procedure;

Figure 13 is a cross-sectional view substantially on the line 13-13 of Figure l; and

Figures 14 and 15 are views similar to Figure 13 illustrating two alternative arrangements.

For the sake of simplicity and clarity, I have chosen to illustrate my invention in connection with a shoe having a substantially continuous upper of the "moccasin style, and a platform. The upper consists of two side sections 2'9 and 21, a forepart plug 22 having a tongue extension 23, and a rear section 24. The platform may be of relatively narrow character in the forward region of the shoe, and of greater height in the heel region, as shown. A single platform wrapper 45 may extend all around the shoe, with the ends overlapped as at 26, or separate wrapper strips may be employed for the heel region and the forward region. Underlying the platform is the usual outer sole 27.

Each of the parts and 21 may be formed of a blank such as that indicated at 28 in Figure 2. The shape and size are not material, so far as the present invention is concerned, except that the rear end 29 is of such length that it terminates short of the rear end of the shoe. Preferably both side sections of the upper are symmetrical in this regard, the rear ends 29 terminating at substantially equal distances from the rear end of the shoe.

Any usual shoe material, such as leather or fabric, may be employed in forming the upper sections 20 and 21. As will become presently apparent, however, the rear section 24 of the upper, shown in its independent state in Figure 3, is so incorporated into the structure that it ultimately lies on the inside of the shoe. Accordingly, this element may be composed of a different material, if desired, for the sake of economy.

The section 24 has forwardly extending parts 30 and 31, and in accordance with the invention these parts may In the construction herein illustrated, the part 30 is longer than the part 31. Each of these parts has a smoothly curved convex upper edge, but this is not essential, and any appropriate contours may be employed.

As a first step in forming the upper, the parts 20, 21 and 24 may be stitched together as indicated in Figure 4. The front edges of the side sections 20 and 21 are joined at 32. The rear ends 29 of the side sections are caused to overlap the rear section 24 on the exterior of the parts 30 and 31, and each of these parts is stitched along its forward margin to the corresponding overlap. Thus, a line of stitching 33 secures the longer part 30 to the side section 20, and a corresponding line of stitching 34 secures the shorter part 31 to the side section 21.

A pocket is thus formed beneath each of the overlaps, and in a case (as shown) where the rear section 24 is asymmetrical, one of these pockets is substantially deeper or longer than the other. This is best indicated in Figure 5, in which it will be noted that the pocket 41 is appreciably longer than the corresponding pocket 42 on the other side. The pockets have openings which face rearwardly, i. e., toward each other in the region of the shoe which is to be reinforced. As shown in Figure 6, the upper may be completed by securing the plug 22 in position by means of stitching 35, and by applying a trimming, such as the French cording 36 (or any equivalent binding or ornamentation) to the top edge of the upper in the rear parts 6 of the shoe. Where such a cording or binding is used, it catches in the overlapping edges of the side and rear sections.

It is during the initial interconnection of the parts, as indicated in Figures 4 and 6, that the full-length sock lining 37 is secured to the upper. This is achieved by a line of stitching 33 extending along the margin of the sock lining in well-known fashion, and securing it to the lower edge of the upper. In most cases, the stitches 38 extend continuously around the periphery of the upper, as indicated in Figure 7. It is to be noted that the lower edges of the overlaps 29 are purposely kept free of engagement with the stitches 33. To accomplish this result, the overlaps are turned back during the application of the stitches 38. Sometimes it may be impractical or undesirable to bend the overlaps (for example, where a relatively stiff material or a patent leather is employed), and in those circumstances it is satisfactory, for the time being, to discontinue the stitches 38 at the points 39 and 45), as shown in Figure 6. It is to be understood that a similar pair of spaced points 39 and 40 exist on the remote side of the assembly, in order that the lower edge of the corresponding overlap 29 be left disengaged from the stitches In accordance with my invention, a counter of appro priate size and shape is now applied to the exterior of the rear upper section 24, with the ends of the counter projecting forwardly into snug accommodation within the respective pockets 41, 42; and a counter-covering element is then caused to overlie the counter and is secured to the overlaps 29 of the side sections of the upper. One satisfactory way of achieving this general objective is to form a separate sub-assembly of elements as indicated in Figure 8. In this view I have shown a counter 43 in association with a counter-covering element 44, and a platform wrapper strip 45. The counter 43 is of asyzn metrical shape, corresponding to the relative sizes and shapes of the pockets 41, 42; and it is to be observed that the covering element 44 is not of corresponding area. This element is more or less symmetrical, and its forward edges come forwardly from the rear by substantially equal amounts, adequate to establish a contiguous relation with the overlaps 2? to which they are to be connected.

The parts are joined together along their lower edges, by a line of stitching 46 which terminates short of the forward ends of the lower edge of the covering element 44.

This unit is now applied to the assembly of Figure 6 so as to bring about an interfitting relationship of the parts whereby the forward ends of the counter 43 fit into the pockets 41, 42 respectively, and the counter-covcring element 44 is then secured in position. ranged with its ends exteriorly overlapping the overlaps 29, as illustrated in Figures 10, 12 and 13, stitches 47 are caused to extend along the front and top margins of the element 44. It should be observed that these stitches extend downwardly to the lower edge of the element 44, and that they terminate at the level of the sock lining 37. The wrapper 45 may be turned back, as shown in Figure l0, to permit the stitching 47 to be performed.

It is at this time that the disengaged part of the lower edge of each of the overlaps 29 may be stitched down. If the preliminary assembly was of the type shown in Figure 6, the stitching referred to will pass through the counter-covering element 44, the corresponding overlap 29, the counter itself (if its lower edge extends down that far), the rear section 24 of the upper, and the sock lining 37.

At the same time, or by a separate row of stitches, if it is desired, the unattached parts of the platform wrapper 45 are stitched to the upper in the forward regions of the shoe. The parts finally assume the appearance indicated in Figure 12. It is at this stage that the assembly is applied to a last, and the sole structure completed in accordance with well-known practices. The lasting has not been illustrated, since it is known per se. Suflice it to point out that appropriate fillers, platform pads, heel Where it is arelements (if desired), shank stifieners, etc. are applied to the lasted assembly, the platform wrapper is then pulled over the margin and cemented down, and the outer sole 27 is then secured in position by adhesive or otherwise.

in the finished article of footwear, the presence of an asymmetrical counter is not readily apparent, inasmuch as the counter-covering element 44 is substantially symmetrica. Obviously, this element will be composed of a material chosen to blend appropriately with the materials of which the side sections of the upper have been formed.

It is not essential that the counter-covering element have its ends in the exteriorly overlying relation to the side sections of the upper. In certain shoe styles it may be desirable to tuck these ends of the counter-covering clement beneath the overlaps of the side sections, as indicated in Figure 14. It may even be desirable, under certain circumstances, that the overlapping relations shown in Figures 13 and 14 be completely avoided, and that the ends of the counter-covering element be brought into an abutting relation to the rear ends of the side sections of the upper. This is indicated in Figure 15. If the latter construction is resorted to, it is desirable, as a preliminary step, to associate a connection strip 59 with the rear end of the side section of the upper, by stitches such as those shown at 51.

Since the procedure and structure of Figures l4 and 15 are substantially the same as those heretofore described in connection with Figures 1-l3, the same reference numerals have been applied, except for the addition of a in Figure 14 and b in Figure 15.

It will be understood that the invention is not restricted to the reinforcement or stiffening of the upper in the rear region of the shoe. The teachings of the invention make it possible to apply a counter or equivalent stiffener in any selected region of the upper where the added reinforcement may be considered to be desirable. Moreover, it is not essential that the opposed pockets be formed by overlapping sections of the upper as herein described and illustrated, although this method of forming the pockets is an extremely practical and economical one.

The counter I have shown is an unflanged counter, and I have chosen to show its lower edge flush with the lower edges of the parts between which it is sandwiched, i. e., the rear section of the upper and the counter-covering element. Under certain circumstances, the lower edge of the counter may be otherwise shaped or positioned. For example, it may terminate above the lower edges of the sandwiching elements, or it may project beyond them and turn in to lie beneath the sock lining, thus affording additional support and reinforcement, as may be required.

Regardless of the particular shape which the counter assumes, it will be understood that it need not necessarily be assembled, as part of a preliminarily-formed unit, with the counter-covering element. The counter may be separately applied to the rear section of the upper, and the counter-covering element (carrying with it the platform wrapper) may be subsequently applied as a separate unit.

The invention obviously lends itself also to variations in style, other than those alluded to. In each case, the resultant shoe has all the comfort, softness, and attractiveness which a full-length stitched-on sock lining affords; it has the neat appearance and the rigidity and long life which a reinforcement of the upper imparts to it, the strength being comparable to that of shoes customarily employed for street wear and other rugged uses; and the procedure is nevertheless of the relatively simple and highly economical character which is a feature of the slip-lasting process.

In general, it will be understood that variation in many of the details herein described and illustrated may be made without necessarily departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the manufacture of a siip-lasted shoe whose upper is stiffened in the rear region, the steps which consist in providing an upper of stitched-together sections which include a rear section and two side sections, said side sections exteriorly overlapping the rear section so as to define rearwardly opening pockets, and applying a heel counter to the exterior of said rear section with the opposite ends of the counter projecting forwardly into said pockets.

2. The procedure defined in claim 1, in which the side sections are caused to terminate at substantially equal distances from the rear of the shoe but in which one side of the rear section is made longer than the other so that said pockets are of unequal depths, the counter employed being one which is correspondingly asymmetrical.

3. In the manufacture of a slip-lasted shoe whose upper is stiffened in the rear region, the steps which consist in providing an upper having in the rear region, a rear section and two adjacent side sections stitched thereto along the forward margins of said rear section, said side sections exteriorly overlapping the rear section so as to define rearwardly opening pockets, providing a separate unit consisting of a counter of appropriate size and shape and a counter-covering element secured thereto, applying said unit to the exterior of said rear section with the opposite ends of the counter projecting forwardly into said pockets and the opposite ends of the covering element in contiguous relation to said side sections, and then securing the side edges of said covering element to said side sections.

4. In the manufacture of a slip-lasted shoe whose upper is stifiened in the rear region, the steps which consist in providing an upper having in the rear region, a rear section and two adjacent side sections stitched thereto along the forward margins of said rear section, said side sections exteriorly overlapping the rear section so as to define rearwardly opening pockets, providing a separate unit consisting of a counter of appropriate size and shape and a counter-covering element secured thereto, applying said unit to the exterior of said rear section with the opposite ends of the counter projecting forwardly into said pockets and the opposite ends of the covering element exteriorly overlying the rear ends of the side sections, and then securing the side edges of said covering element to the underlying side sections.

5. In the manufacture of a slip-lasted shoe whose upper is stiffened in a selected region, the steps which consist in providing an upper having a plurality of upper sections joined in overlapping relation, the overlaps being located in the region to be stiffened and being arranged to do fine opposed pockets whose openings face toward each other, stitching a full-length sock lining to the upper by stitches which leave the exterior layers of the overlaps disengaged, providing a separate unit consisting of a counter of appropriate size and shape and a counter covering element overlying it and secured thereto, and then applying said unit to said region with the opposite ends of the counter lying within said pockets and the opposite ends of the covering element in contiguous relation to the proximate edges of said exterior layers of the overlaps.

6. The procedure defined in claim 5, in which a platform wrapper is partially secured to the lower edge of said unit before application of the unit to the upper, and is further secured thereto and also to the upper after such application.

7. In the manufacture of a slip-lasted shoe whose upp r is stiffened in the rear region, the steps which consist in providing an upper having in the rear region, a rear section and two adjacent side sections stitched thereto along the forward margins of said rear section, said side sections exteriorly overlapping the rear section so as to define rearwardly opening pockets, stitching a full-length sock lining to the upper by stitches which leave the over lapping parts of said side sections disengaged, providing a separate unit consisting of a counter of appropriate size and shape and a counter-covering element overlying it and secured thereto, including in said unit a platform wrapper ionger than the lower edge of said covering element and secured to the latter by stitches terminating short of the ends of said lower edge, applying said unit to said rear section with the opposite ends of the counter projecting forwardly into said pockets and the opposite ends of the covering element in contiguous relation to said side sections, securing the side edges of said covering element to said side sections by'stitches extending all the way to the lower edge of said covering element, and then completing the stitching of the wrapper to said lower edge and to the upper.

8. in the manufacture of a slip-lasted shoe whose upper is stiffened in the rear region, the steps which consist in providing an upper of sections including a rear section and two adjacent side sections stitched thereto along the forward margins of said rear section, said side sections exteriorly overlapping the rear section so as to define rearwardly opening pockets, stitching a full-length sock lining to the upper by stitches which leave the lower edges of the overlapping parts of said side sections dis engaged, applying a counter of appropriate size and shape, as well as a counter-covering element, to the exterior of said rear section with the opposite ends of the counter within said pockets and the opposite ends of the covering element in contiguous relation to said side sections, and then stitching the side edges of the covering element to said side sections, and stitching together the overlapping series of lower edges of the covering element, the side sections, and the rear section.

9. The procedure defined in claim 8, in which a platform wrapper is stitched to the lower edge of the covering element before the latter is applied to the upper, the unattached parts of the platform wrapper being subsequently secured to the upper in the regions further forward.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 214,684 Miller Apr. 22, 1879 1,656,162 Blackwell Jan. 17, 1928 1,861,844 Dodge et al. June 7, 1932 1,990,275 Engel Feb. 5, 1935 2,392,815 Gleason Jan. 15, 1946 2,404,587 Maling July 23, 1946 2,493,497 Meltzer Jan. 3, 1950 2,505,672 Hickey Apr. 25, 1950 

